Jump to content

For Those Of You Who Picked Smells As Something You Find


Recommended Posts

This movie is for you! Especially if you like horror.

http://www.perfumemovie.com/

PERFUME: THE STORY OF A MURDER

Body:

The Story of a Murderer is a 1985 literary historical horror novel (originally published in German as Das Parfum) by German writer Patrick S�skind. The novel explores the sense of scent, and its relationship with the emotional meaning that scents may carry. Above all this is a story of identity, communication and the morality of the human spirit.

The cover of Perfume appropriates the painting of Antoine Watteau, Jupiter and Antiope, which depicts an image of a naked woman sleeping, serving as a symbol of fragrant seduction.

Grenouille's life begins in a Parisian fish market, where his fishmonger mother gives birth to him among the stinking fish heads and scraps in one of the dirtiest places in all of Paris. She intends to dispose of his body along with the fish organs which surround his birthplace. However, her plans are thwarted when Grenouille expels a squeal so piercing that passers-by are alerted to his mother's plans and his life is saved, although his mother is sentenced to death because of her attempted infanticide. In his infanthood, Grenouille discovers his gift to isolate smells of every kind and preserve the scent in his memory, although the irony of this is is that Grenouille himself has no personal scent or odour.

Grenouille is passed from wet nurse to wet nurse, ostensibly because he drinks too much of their milk, preventing them from feeding any other children. However, the true reason for his being passed on from one nurse to another is his haunting lack of scent. "This does not smell how children ought to smell", stated nurse Jeanne Bussie, convinced that he was possessed by the devil. Grenouille begins to struggle with the concept of speech, particularly with the idea of ethical and moral words, which further isolates him from the rest of the human race. Eventually he develops the ability to speak, although he chooses not to; he is only able to associate words by their scent, his first word being wood. After being continually rejected by society due to his lack of odour, Grenouille finds himself in the care of Madame Gaillard, a woman who runs an orphanage for children, and who herself lost her sense of smell in childhood, so is unable to detect his lack of odour. Grenouille grows up in the orphanage unloved and malnourished. Grenouille, isolated and outcast by society, begins to develop a disgust for his fellow humans, and distinguishes himself by his uncanny sense of smell. Grenouille begins to collect the olfactory sensations that he experiences, preserving and cataloging these scents � both good and bad � in his mental library.

At the age of eight, Grenouille is sold by Madame Gaillard to a tanner. Grenouille survives this work which can be borne by none, with his innate tenacity and resilience which likens him to a 'tick'. After he finishes working at the tannery, Grenouille begins exploring the streets of Paris in search of new scents to add to his olfactory catalogue. One evening, he discovers the scent of something unknown to him, a scent so enticing he cannot help but follow it and discover its origin. He moves in and out of alleyways in search of this ungraspable scent until finally he finds it, a beautiful young girl. This is the first time in his life that Grenouille doubts his nose, for he cannot believe that such a perfect scent could come from such a member of the disgusting human race, which he has come to despise. With the intention to preserve this perfect scent he kills the girl, only to find that upon her death the beautiful scent dies as well, evaporating into the Parisian night sky. Tortured by the loss of this perfect scent, Grenouille dedicates his life to the purpose of finding this one perfect scent, and it is this greed which continues his survival.

One evening Grenouille is told by his master to deliver the tanner's skins to the famous perfumer Baldini. Grenouille sees this as a perfect opportunity to learn from a master perfumer the way to preserve smells and teach him the ways of creating scents. Baldini, with his own problems, initially rejects Grenouille when he asks for an apprenticeship, but eventually gives in and offers Grenouille the opportunity to become his apprentice. He is, then, astounded by Grenouille's ability to emulate the scents of perfumes in which Baldini could not, without the use of measurements or other techniques of a perfumer. After being taught the ways of Baldini, Grenouille is soon able to create new perfumes from all those scents placed before him, which makes Baldini the most popular perfumer in all Paris. Upon attempting to isolate the scent of objects such as iron and glass, Grenouille fails, which affects him greatly, leading him to fall ill with small pox. Grenouille then hears that there are other techniques besides distillation that can be used to isolate scents. Upon learning this news, Grenouille miraculously becomes healthy once more, and leaves Baldini to pursue these new perfume production techniques in the city of Grasse, heading out into the forest, and beginning his journey in search for the perfect scent.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The book was great in a psychological sort of way. Short but intense w/ a lot packed into short stints.

The movie is supposed be taking it to a completely different psychological tangent. If you want to read the book first keep that in mind while walking into the theater. If you look them as two different stories you'll be fine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

About those smells.......lol......did you know civet is the anal gland excretions of a ethiopian cat?

And whale vomit......oh yes. But they use mostly sythetic forms of these sorts of things now a days.

FRAGRANCE

Parfum The most concentrated form of fragrance oil, perfume is the strongest and longest-lasting of fragrance forms and may contain several hundred ingredients. That's why a little goes a long way.

Eau de Parfum Created with a lighter concentration of fragrance oil than perfume but more than Eau de Toilette.

Eau de Toilette (Cologne) Less concentrated than perfume or Eau de Parfum. It is created with fragrance oil at a lighter concentration for a more subtle impression. Eau de Toilette is considered the ideal all-over-the-body base for a scent/fragrance application.

Moisturizing Parfum Mist A unique fragrance form that doesn't contain alcohol. It is a spray which contains oil that drapes skin in a softer form of fragrance and leaves skin with a silky smooth veil of perfumed moisturizers. Ideal fragrance form to wear in warm weather because it is less drying to the skin.

Natural Spray A non-aerosol spray method which is generated by a pump action to produce a delicate misting of fragrance. Safe for the environment.

SHAVE

After Shave A hydro-alcoholic solution with fragrance oil used to provide fragrance and to cool and stimulate the skin after shaving. May also include astringent materials to help heal small nicks and cuts.

After Shave Balm Used to take the sting and redness out of shaving. This highly emollient, easily absorbed balm is usually infused with ingredients with soothing benefits to leave skin comfortable. Either contains no alcohol or less than After Shave.

Shave Foam A foaming and lathering product used to lubricate skin for shaving Rinses easily from the skin (and the razor) and usually contains moisturizing properties. Instant foam is quick and easy.

Shave Gel This shaving product contains less air so it lays closer to the beard to provide a closer shave. It has moisturizing ingredients to protect and condition skin but may be harder to rinse and must be worked into a foam.

BODY

Gel Moisturizer A newer form of body care that combines the hydration of a lotion with the quick absorption of a gel and cooling properties.

Body Lotion A highly emollient product used to smooth, moisturize and prevent chapped, irritated skin. Helps seal in moisture when applied directly after a bath or shower. Perfect for all-over body moisturizing.

Bodr Crème Has a thicker viscosity than a lotion, but is also used to smooth and moisturize skin. The richer texture is ideal for extra dry areas like elbows, knees and heels.

Body Scrub A product used to exfoliate (remove dead skin cells) and cleanse the skin. Has a "grainy" texture which provides effective yet gentle sloughing action.

Shower Gel Provides the same cleaning power as soap but gives the user a pleasant combination of scent, softness and tingle. Usually contains moisturizers and leaves less soapy residue.

Perfumed Body Oil A non-alcoholic solution that softens and protects skin from dryness and leaves it with a radiant sheen.

Dry Oil A non-greasy, skin-defining, moisturizing product that softens and hydrates skin. Can be used to highlight body definition and also as a massage oil.

PERFUME TERMS

Absolute It is the most concentrated form of perfumery material. Absolute is the pure base material that is obtained by extracting from plant's solids (flowers or leaves). These solids contain waxes and insoluble materials that are unusable in perfumery. To extract the absolute, the solid materials will undergo the extraction process (washed in alcohol, frozen, then filtered). When the alcohol evaporates, the remaining product is the plant's absolute.

Accord The basic character or theme of a fragrance. An perfume accord comes about from the harmonious blend of mixing three or four notes to create a new odor. All modern perfumes are accords of several olfactory families.

Acid Description of a scent, always associated with citrus plants (limes, lemons, oranges, mandarin oranges).

Alcohol Usually refers to Ethyl Alcohol or Ethanol, the main solvent added to a fragrance compound to carry perfume for extraits, colognes. It modifies the fragrance intensity, making application to the skin easier.

Aldahydes Organic chemicals which can be derived from natural material or man made from ethyl alcohol by hydrogen loss. They represent a major series of perfume ingredients and are used in extreme dilution in the preparation of perfumes. Aldehydes are used in the perfume industry for their particularly vivid top notes.

Amber Amber is obtained from fir trees. When processed gives a heavy, rich, full bodied, powdery, warm fragrance tone. It is commonly used in fragrances that fall into the "oriental" category.

Ambergris The rarest of raw materials ambergris is essentially whale vomit. Sperm whales are unable to completely digest the beaks and other bony parts of the squid that they feed on regularly. These partially digested bony parts collect in a whale stomach until the whale regurgitates these masses into the sea. The combination of salt water and ocean weather further processes the regurgitated material. Eventually it washes up on shore in solid form where it is collected and processed.

Animal Refers to the warm, sensual and heady base notes once associated with the natural odor of musk, ambergris, civet, and castoreum, now produced by some vegetable materials and aroma chemicals.

Anosmia Describes the loss of the sense of smell. It may be caused by a cold, head-injury, nasal disorders, allergies, a virus or perhaps other maladies.

Apocrines A type of sweat gland which contributes to the sexual and body scent in humans and which influences the odor characteristics of one's fragrance.

Aroma A term used to describe a sensation which is between smell and taste.

Aroma Chemicals Any natural isolates or synthetics which have an aroma. The natural isolates are removed either mechanically (distillation) or chemically (hydrolysis) from a natural essential oil or product and can be further modified to produce other aroma chemicals. Synthetic aroma chemicals duplicate clinical structures found in nature.

Aromatherapy The therapeutic use of pure essential oils and herbs in body massage, the result of which is described by proponents as "healing, beautifying and soothing" the body and mind, has its roots in the folk medicine practiced in primitive cultures.

Attar From the ancient persian word "to smell sweet". Attar or otto refers to the essential oil derived from the distillation of flowers. That of the Bulgarian rose is one of the most precious materials used in perfumery.

Balsams Sticky, resinous materials obtained from bark, twigs or leaves of trees or shrubs, which give a combined sweet-woody odor associated with well-seasoned. non-coniferous woods such as maple.

Base Note The base note is what gives perfume its longevity. It's the part of the perfume that lingers and lasts the longest, and gives a perfume depth and richness.

Basil Well-known from cuisine, basil is also used as a strong, spicy middle note in perfume making.

Bitter Describes a perfume odor which has a metallic green quality, without sweetness.

Blend Harmonious mixture of perfumery ingredients.

Body The main fragrance theme. The middle or "heart" of a perfume. Also used to describe a fragrance that is well-rounded or full.

Camphoraceous Camphor-like. The fresh clean cooling character displayed by Eucalyptus but also present in the descriptions of the smells of Rosemary, Lavandin and many Herbal notes.

Chromatography A system of scientific analysis that allows the identification and the quantification of the molecular components of a plants essence. Chromatography is also used to analyze finished perfumes and gage their longevity.

Chypre A fragrance family. Based on a woody, mossy and flowery complex, sometimes with aspects of leather or fruits, chypre perfumes are rich and tenacious.

Citrus Odors from citrus fruits such as orange, lemon, lime, mandarin and bergamot which give fresh, fruity top notes. The citrus notes are often combined with more feminine scents (flowers, fruits and chypre).

Cloying An odor that is excessively sticky sweet.

Composition This is the mixture that results from all the base materials that go into a fragrance.

Compound A compound is a completed perfume formulation ready to be used in a product such as perfume, toilet water, etc.

Concrete The mixture obtained after pure base materials have been extracted. This mixture is then combined with alcohol or with other supportive elements. The solid waxy substance represents the closest odor duplication of the flower, bark, leaves, etc. Concretes can be further concentrated to produce absolutes.

Coniferous Cone-baring trees and shrubs.

Depth Refers to a fragrance odor of low volatility with a dimension that is rich and full bodied.

Diffusion The ability of a fragrance to quickly radiate around the wearer and subtly permeate the environment.

Distilation The oldest method of extracting the fragrant essence from a plant or flower. The plant is essentially steamed in special still, when the excess water evaporates, the essential oil remains behind.

Dry Down The final phase of a fragrance, the character which appears several hours after application. Perfumers evaluate the base notes and the tenacity of the fragrance during this stage.

Dysosmia A distortion or perversion of the sense of smell. It may occur with hyposmia (a relative loss of the sense of smell) or it may occur alone.

Earthy The provocative odor of freshly turned earth, musty and rooty.

Enflerage A method of extraction used on particularly delicate flowers that don't respond well to heat. Fragrant flowers are laid on glass or stone slabs covered in grease or animal fat. Weight is applied and the flowers are left until their scent has been absorbed by the grease. This is a long and expensive process and isn't used in modern perfumery.

Essences Products which endeavor to capture or emphasize the highly volatile top notes of natural products.

Essential Essential: Volatile oil obtained by various processes from flowers, oil leaves, roots, barks, stems, fruits, seeds and woods.

Essential Oils The "essence" of plants or the fragrant, volatile extracts obtained from flowers, grass, stems, seeds, leaves, roots, bark, fruits, tree moss and tree secretions. They are obtained by various means including distillation, expression and extraction.

Evanescent Fleeting or quickly vanishing fragrance.

Expression A technique for the extraction of citrus products, which uses mechanical pressure to press the essential oils from the raw material. This method is used primarily on citrus rinds.

Extracts Concentrated perfume or flower products obtained through the process of extraction using volatile solvents.

Fatigue Odor fatigue results from overlong exposure to an odor. The nose can no longer discern that particular smell.

Fixative The property of a fragrance which prolongs the continuity and life of the odor. Fixative is the material which slows down the rate of evaporation of the more volatile components in a perfume composition.

Fixed Oils Non-volatile oils derived from plant materials, commonly referred to as vegetable oils.

Flacon A word to describe beautifully designed perfume bottles sometimes especially designed for portability.

Flat Lacking in lift, diffusion and distinction.

Floral Fragrance family or type; either characteristic of a specific flower or a blend of several flower notes. Combined with any other family, flowery perfumes are universally commercial.

Flowery Possessing a fragrance resembling a flower. Term often used to describe certain aromatic chemicals such as heliotropin, hedione, rhodinol and artistic aldehyde.

Fougere The french word for "fern." Fougere fragrances depend on aromatic chemicals to produce the fern-like notes which combine well with lavender, citrus and coumarin in fragrances for men.

Fresh An invigorating, outdoor or nature- inspired type fragrance with green, citrus notes.

Fruity The impression of full, ripe, edible fruit odors (excluding citrus) within the fragrance theme.

Fungal Odors suggestive of molds, mushrooms and fungi. Important notes in muguet fragrances as well as other florals.

Geranium The essential oil derived from geranium flower has a rich aroma of rose with a hint of fresh mint. It has healing properties and is used to renew energy.

Green Fragrance family or type whose odor is reminiscent of fresh-cut grass, leaves or a warm, moist forest. Green notes add lift and vigor to a fragrance composition.

Harmonious Order, accord and unity in fragrance.

Harsh A crude, unbalanced, rough pungent odor.

Hay A sweet clover odor.

Heady Exhilarating, sparkling, stimulating. The term used for perfumes or odors that provokes the excitement of the senses. Jasmine and incense are both example of heady fragrances.

Heart The core of a perfume composition which gives it its character.

Heavy An odor which can be forceful, intense, often sweet and balsamic.

Herbaceous A fragrance note that is grassy-green, spicy and somewhat therapeutic, e.g. thyme, hyssop, chamomile.

Honey A very sweet, heavy, syrupy, fragrance note; is tenacious.

Hot A fragrance that gives the impression of sensuality, of life and heat. A hot note is the natural opposite of a cold note, which evokes the idea of something clean and fresh. Cinnamon or even sharp lemon are both hot notes.

Incence The burning of fragrant gums or resins in a solid or powder form. It gives off a lingering, scented smoke and is the original form in which fragrance was used.

Infusion A method to extract essential oil. The solution is obtained by prolonged contact with alcohol. When hot alcohols are used it is called infusion. When alcohols are at room temperature or warm the method is called a tincture.

Ionones One of the most valued synthesized products used by the perfumer. Essential to violet perfumes. Used in small amounts in floral, woody and herbaceous perfumes.

Lastingness The ability of a fragrance to retain its character over a given period of time.

Leather Fragrance type and odor resembling the sweet, pungent smokiness characteristic of the ingredients used in the tanning process of leathers.

Lift To add life to a fragrance blend is to give it lift and some brilliancy; lift can also refer to diffusiveness of a given blend. A perfume having lift has a brilliant top note with wide diffusiveness.

Light A generally non-sweet, non-cloying fragrance where the fresh note is predominant. Often formulated as an eau fraiche or a deodorant cologne for all over body wear in warm climates or for sports.

Masceration A method of extraction suited for flowers or plants with little essential oil, or essential oil that evaporates quickly after picking. Flowers are pressed or covered in a hot grease that absorbs the aromatic essence quicker than enfuerage.

Mellow A fragrance that gives a balanced, smooth and rich impression.

Micro-Encapsulation A method of incorporating thin-walled, microscopic capsules containing fragrance oils into a solid substance (fragrance advertising inserts, blotters, paper, etc).

Middle -Notes The middle or "heart" notes make up a main blend of a fragrance that classifies the fragrance family or accord. It usually takes from ten to twenty minutes for the middle notes to fully develop on the skin.

Mossy The odor suggestive of the aromatic lichens, and mosses, primarily oak moss and tree moss; reminiscent of forest depths.

Note Indicates an olfactory impression of a single smell, or to indicate the three parts of a perfume top note, middle note, base note.

Odour Airborne chemicals emanating from water, objects, one's body, flowers or fragrance that stimulate the olfactory system. The characteristic smell of something.

Oriental Fragrance family or type devoting heavy, full bodied and tenacious perfumes. A blend of warmth and mystery. Musks and precious woods are complemented by exotic essences.

Palette The range of perfume ingredients from which a perfumer selects to use in the formulation of a perfume.

Pomades Combination of purified fats and flower oils produced by the enfleurage process.

Powdery Sweet, dry, somewhat musky odor.

Resin The end product obtained from the extraction of vegetable products as roots, mosses, balms, and rubbers.

Rhizomes Root-like stems with nodes which grow under or along the ground. Certain perfume raw materials come from rhizome, e.g., Orris absolute and ginger oil.

Rounding Out Perfume ingredients, often from natural origin, added to fragrance compositions to enrich, modify or soften any harsh qualities.

Sillage The scent that lingers in the air when a person who is wearing perfume passes by.

Solvent Extraction A process of extracting the essential oil from a raw material by exposing it to chemicals that strip away the non-soluble matter and leave the essential oil to behind.

Solvents Volatile fluids used to extract essential oils from flowers and other natural perfume materials.

Specialties Natural oils, natural isolates or synthetics, either alone or in combination, which are used as building blocks for fragrance compounds. They are less complex than a finished fragrance compound. They may be an end-product of special processing treatments or unique raw materials.

Spicy Piquant or pungent notes such as clove oil, cinnamon; characteristic of notes of carnation, ginger, lavender or the chemical spicy notes of eugenol or isoeugenol.

Stability A reasonable length of time for a fragrance to remain stable before the product is affected by certain raw materials, heat, light and air.

Strength The relative intensity of a fragrance impression.

Sweet Can be used to describe a fragrance that has richness and ambrosial characteristics associated with sweet taste.

Synergism The ability of certain perfumery ingredients to work together to produce an effect greater than the ingredients could achieve independently.

Synthesis A chemical procedure enables the creation of a new odorous molecule.

Synthetics May be derived or isolated from natural products or manufactured in the laboratory. Some synthetics are superior to the natural in uniformity, stability and availability.

Terpeneless Complete or partial removal of monoterpenic or hydrocarbons by distillation of an essential oil to improve solubility in diluted alcohol or food grade solvents and to increase stability of the oil and prevent the appearance of rancid notes.

Thin When a fragrance complex has not been given enough "floralcy" or warmth to soften the impact of the more aggressive and volatile components; lacking in body and depth.

Top Note The first impression of a fragrance when sniffed or applied to the skin; usually the most volatile ingredients in a perfume.

Turn A perfume has "turned" when its odor and color have transformed because of chemical changes due to the atmosphere, light, heat or age. To keep a perfume from turning, store it out of direct sunlight, with the lid tightly closed and away from direct heat. Keeping perfumes in the refrigerator isn't necessary, since a too cool temperature can also cause a perfume to turn.

Undertones The subtle characteristics of the fragrance background.

Velvety A soft, smooth, mellow fragrance without harsh chemical notes.

Volatile The property of being freely diffused in the atmosphere; easily vaporized at a low temperature.

Woody An odor which recalls the aroma of freshly cut, dry wood or fibrous root such as sandalwood or vetiver.

http://www.jasina.com.sg/5Glossary.htm

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Forum Statistics

    38.9k
    Total Topics
    820.5k
    Total Posts
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 84 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.